Stormrider Guide to surfing Central Sumbawa

Indonesia, EAST ASIA

Lakey Peak, John Callahan/Tropicalpix

Summary

+ Density of world-class spots	- Sometimes very windy Strong trade winds
+ Consistent conditions	- Long paddles & tricky low tides
+ Lefts and rights	- Crowds
+ Dry surf season	- Tough public transport access

While many of the charter boats leaving Bali head east towards Nusa Tenggara, they usually only make it as far as the west coast of Sumbawa, so to get to the fabled waves of Teluk Cempi Bay in Central Sumbawa means a long, tedious journey by plane and taxi from Bali. Just south of Hu’u, Lakey (Lakai) Beach, is a long, wide, palm-lined stretch of ivory sand, fronted by reef. Since its discovery by Australian surfers in the mid ‘80s, Hu’u has been known to offer a varied selection of waves for every ability & taste. This area has produced some local stars like Dedi Gun, Joey Barrel and 2006 National Indonesian GromSearch winner, Oney Anwar. The total number of visiting surfers in the area can hit 150-200, especially when early morning high tides are happening, producing the best waves in glassy conditions. An extensive 500m wide lagoon needs to be negotiated to get out to the reef, and at low tide some more rock-hopping is required.

When to Go

Winter (May-September) is prime surf season, overloaded with 3-12ft (1-4m) swells, but plagued by sideshore afternoon trades. The SE trade winds start in April and the skies begin to dry. Mornings are often light offshores. The really windy season starts from the end of July until middle of November with 13-25 knots trades and the wind is cross-shore on the beach. Being the official Indo “off-season,” November through February is not the best time of year for surf, being the wet season, but there is the chance of some cyclone swell and south coast spots will be offshore in the W-NW winds. The diurnal tide (one radical change per day) is a factor, so get a tide chart to plan your trip around AM highs.

Surf Spots

Periscopes is a 40 minute walk, but only a short 100m paddle-out. This wave requires a big swell with more S in it and can hold up to double overhead. Hit it early in the morning with a coinciding high tide, as this wave needs plenty of water over the reef to make it out of the barrel onto the shoulder. This is a natural footers tube riding paradise so expect crowds of ‘em! Nungas can peel off like a mini version of G-land, grooming 200m long lefts with alternating shack and whack sections to play with. Many surfers get diverted on the long walk to Periscopes, opting for long ride, short walk. Nungas bends into a big calm bay, happily accepting more size than the Peak and not too much S in the afternoon trades. 300m right of Lakey Peak is a shut down section of reef called No-Mans that may have a short shallow ride in small, lumpy swells. Perfect Lakey Peak peels off short, 30-40m lefts and rights into channels either side. The right will often throw up backdoor tube rides but gets too shallow at low tide, when the left is churning out predictable, ideal speed barrel rides. Mid tide lip-smacking sessions will appeal to intermediates and the flattish reef is user-friendly, except during full or new moon phases. Getting out to the Peak is easy with only a short 450m paddle or take the zodiac for around $2 return. Lakey Peak can hold juicy sized waves, but the optimum time to hit it is when it's in that perfect headhigh plus range. Just 400 meters to the south is Lakey Pipe, a gnarly reef with a fairly sedate take-off, which then hits the shelf and throws out a solid backdoor barrel that leaves enough space to drive a small car through. Optimum at mid to high tide and double overhead, but the Pipe can also take it from tiny to triple. Walk 45mins (or rent a zodiac) to escape the Lakey crowds at a deep reef channel called Cobblestones. Nice walled-up rights on one side and lefts barrelling into the channel opposite, pick up more swell and handle some solid size at mid to high tides. Arrange a lift on a motorbike to get to Nangadoro that offers both a spinning left and 2 right reefs, which pick up more swell than any other spot. Enjoy the hot springs. On small days with NW winds, venture to the south coast where great rights occasionally hit Dedjoeng Wane during the off-season. In the same conditions, check the outside reefbreaks at Wara Point, 4 km south of Sondo and a very long paddle.

Statistics

dominant swell

S -SW

swell size (ft)

5-6

consistency (%)

dominant wind

W -NW

E -NW

E -SE

E -S

SE -NW

average force

consistency (%)

water temp (C)

wetsuit

boardshorts

Travel Information

Weather
Sumbawa is a transitional volcanic island and it has a tropical monsoonal climate. The wet season generally occurs from November through February with heavy monsoon rainfall and clouds. The dry season, from May to October, can still experience rain but is generally fine, clear and hot. Average annual rainfall is 1350mm (53in). Temps are relatively warm, ranging from 23-32°C (74-90ºF) all year-round. It can be breezy around August and September, but boardshorts and a rashie should do.

Lodging and Food
Growing number of places to stay in Lakey, 3km south of Hu’u. Aman Gati Hotel has 40 rooms (fr$49/dbl). 7nt package from Bali; (fr$470). Next door are Lakey Peak Surf Houses and bungalows (fr$35-$130/n). The original 22 room Mona Lisa Bungalows with well-maintained places ($15/nt). Aircon can almost double the room rate. Food is cheap.

Nature and Culture
Not as lively as Bali. Visit Bima Sultan Palace on 99 old teak stilts, see Raba Dompu weaving village and Doro Bata relics in Dompu. Dompu is used by tourists as a stopover point to Mount Tambora. The trek takes 2 nights camping in a rain forest and 1 night to the 2,851m (9354ft) summit. Check Komodo island for its famous dragons.