Stormrider Guide to surfing Vancouver Island

British Columbia, Canada, NORTH AMERICA

surfing Vancouver Island secret spot, Tim Nunn

Summary

+ Consistent swells	- Messy stormy swells
+ Mix of beaches, reefs and points	- Beaches often onshore
+ Waves for all abilities	- Rare, localised pointbreaks
+ Wildlife	- Cold and super rainy

Surfers exploring the southern corners of Canada have found Vancouver Island is well-endowed with some quality reefs, points and beaches, but surfing Vancouver Island is challenging without a boat or seaplane.

Canada has the world’s longest coastline and with 52,455 islands, it should also host the largest number of surf spots. However, being located so far north between 45° to 80° latitude, frozen water is an issue, as well as a regular swell supply. Blessed with some reliable beachbreaks, Tofino is the closest thing to a surf town on the west coast, where stunning, old-growth, temperate rainforests provide the backdrop to some breathtaking beaches in this spectacular natural environment.

When to Go

Storms originating off Japan generate S-W swells that lash the coastline of British Columbia, from September through March. Summer, is reliant on localised windswells, as the distant Southern Hemisphere swells struggle to reach Vancouver Island, and Washington’s Olympic Peninsula shadows the southern breaks. Winter swells vary between 3-15ft, lighting up the sheltered pointbreaks, while summer surf favours the Tofino beaches. NW wind is dominant in summer, while winter gets more W and SW. Spring tides are 3m max, affecting some rivermouth cobblestone breaks.

Surf Spots

Chesterman Beach needs a bit of size to break since it’s sheltered and the southern part is good for learners along with MacKenzie Beach, the next bay north. Rosie’s Bay is a rocky little cove between Chesterman and Cox with punchy, sectiony peaks, favouring lefts at lower tides and is a haunt for local shortboarders. The main Tofino spot is Cox Beach, a crescent beach with tapering walls that line up best in the middle, while each end provides wind protection from the N and S respectively. Long Beach usually has mellow waves, providing an endless choice for the many surf schools that operate on this stretch. Closes-out when the waves get overhead and there can be some currents. Wickaninnish and its tourist Centre is protected from S winds, with more friendly beachbreak or try Florencia Bay for a bit more power. Ucluelet’s Big Beach and Little Beach are unreliable, but Twin Rivers on a good W swell should see some fast tubing walls over sharp rocks. Pacheedat Beach, aka Gordon Rivermouth is a quality beachbreak, best on NE wind and a strong W swell. Most Juan da Fuca Strait spots are winter breaks and the misty, spooky at Sombrio Beach amongst the huge kelp beds includes 1st Peak, Chickens and 2nd peak, where the lefts are usually more walled up and faster. Further down the Strait is China Beach, a very average rocky beachbreak, next to Highway 14 where mellow peaks and easy rides make it a good place for beginner/improvers, but it wont break much in summer. Historically a logging camp, River Jordan has become a surfing town thanks to long wrapping rights known as The Point, Sewers, and Rock Piles, but it has also developed a reputation for intolerant, aggressive locals. Despite being somewhat inconsistent, these waves crank when it’s on, which is mid-winter, big W-NW swell and a NE wind. The Point at the rivermouth can have very long rides (and some lefts back into the river), down-the-line speed walls and bowly barrel sections over the sand boulder mix. Sewers gets really hollow and fast, for experienced surfers only, since localism is a given. Further inside the Strait, there are other spots on huge swells, but remember that SE winds blow out most breaks.

Statistics

dominant swell

SW -NW

swell size (ft)

7-8

6-7

4-5

3-4

7-8

consistency (%)

dominant wind

S -W

SW -NW

W -N

S -W

average force

F3-F4

consistency (%)

water temp (C)

wetsuit

5/4

4/3

3/2

4/3

Travel Information

Weather
Vancouver Island weather is very wet and changeable, however, the winters are mild by Canadian standards and the summers are cool. Port Renfrew experiences about 12 days of snowfall over the year. The annual average rainfall can reach an impressive 6650mm (260in) in the mountains, dropping to a 10th of that in the rain-shadowed capital, Victoria. July is the driest month and November the wettest. A 4/3mm with booties in summer and a 5/4 mm hooded suit with 3/5mm gloves and boots in winter.

Lodging and Food
Many options for all budgets especially deluxe. Many B&Bs are located right on Tofino’s beaches. Stay at Tofino Hostel (from $35/dorm bed). Cox Bay has the pricey private Pacific Sands Beach Resort. Camp near the surf at Greenpoint Campground with trail access to Long Beach. Try Sobo for delicious local seafood.

Nature and Culture
Tofino is a mecca for outdoor adventure like hiking the boardwalk trails in the ancient, dripping rainforest, biking on the beach at low tide, kayaking, sport fishing and whale watching. The West Coast Trail opens in summer for hiking, camping and exploring the surrounding wilderness, but surfing is not permitted.