Stormrider Guide to surfing Cuba

Cuba, CENTRAL AMERICA & CARIBBEAN

La Sententa, Olivier Servaire

Summary

+ Uncrowded outside Habana	- Short, inconsistent swell season
+ Exploration possibilities	- Onshore winds
+ Boca de Yumuri pointbreak	- Low quality Habana spots
+ Perfect winter climate	- Difficult travel logistics

The biggest island in the Caribbean should be a carnival of waves, but the Bahamas puts a damper on the party, filtering out all but the biggest winter swells from the NE coast of Cuba. The Atlantic swells have to squeeze through the gaps between the islands, then traverse the continental shelf, so the most reliable coast is around the eastern tip where the window is widest.

When to Go

Cuba is a winter-only surf destination as only the bigger NE Atlantic groundswell will manage to seep in through gaps in the Bahamas. These swells suffer from a reduction in size and power but 6-8ft waves are not unheard of. The dominant wind is from the NE so early mornings or sheltered bays are the way to go. Havana receives weekly winter swells from the NW, which are generated by intense storms in the Gulf of Mexico, bringing onshore winds, rain and poor quality surf. Rare hurricane swells can strike from the north or the south and produce big waves. These are highly unpredictable but September and October are the most likely periods. Tidal variation is small, not exceeding 0.6m.

Surf Spots

La Setenta (aka Calle 70, Playa 70) is the pick of the Havana spots, just in front of the distinctive Russian Embassy in the Miramar district. A shallow table of flat, dead but painfully sharp coral produces messy peaks that often close-out. In fact, were it not for the slab of concrete sticking out into the ocean here that provides a marginally easier entry and exit point, this spot hardly differs from any other part of the reef that lines the Havana coastline. Rides are short and usually mushy in the onshores. It can get very busy and, unfortunately, surf etiquette doesnÕt appear to have caught on in a big way in Cuba. Much quieter than La Setenta are the long sandy beaches of the Playas del Este. Generally gathering less swell, they are worth checking out when La Setenta is too big or stormy. There are a number of individual beaches here, but the overriding feature is strong currents. Due to the nature of the sandbar waves, their exact form varies from day to day. Heading east from Havana to Varadero, Sun Beach is the number one tourist spot in Cuba. There is an average beachbreak with exposure to the NW, but beware, lifeguards sometimes shut the beach when the surf is up. In Ciego de Avila province, a 27km long causeway links the mainland to Cayo Coco, a good option for package tour surfers staying at some of the largest resort hotels in the country. ThereÕs a mixture of sandy beach, rocks and coral reef but shallow waters and the Bahamas shadow make Cayo Coco very inconsistent. Between here and the tourist town of Holguin there are definitely other waves. Just to the west of the pretty port of Gibara is a fast and hollow left breaking on a shallow rock shelf. The wave is short and intense, with a tube section, but it does need a good swell to get going. More waves shadow the road all the way back to Playa Caletones, where a fringe of reef holds possibilities in NE swells. Further E, Guardalavaca beach is usually tiny junk, but the offshore reef has rights out off the northern headland. Even further east, the best wave in Cuba, Boca de Yumuri, is found near Baracoa. A classic cobblestone right point, it reels into a stunning bay for up to several hundred metres. Breaks from 3-8ft and gathers any sign of a NE swell through a gap between the Bahamas and the Turks and Caicos. It also handles any tide, and is offshore in an E wind. The south coast of Cuba has plenty of potential, but it only really breaks on rare hurricane swells, or SE windchop. Explore Cajobabo rivermouths, Playa Juragua lefts and Playa Aguadores or Playa Mar Verde beachbreak peaks on each side of Santiago de Cuba. The ledgy and unpredictable righthand reefbreak called Windmills is found inside the Guantanamo Bay military base, so only the armed forces get to surf it.

Statistics

dominant swell

NW -NE

NW -S

NW -NE

swell size (ft)

2-3

1-2

2-3

consistency (%)

dominant wind

NE -E

NE -SE

E -SE

NE -SE

NE -E

average force

F3-F4

consistency (%)

water temp (C)

wetsuit

boardshorts

Travel Information

Weather
During the short winter occasional cold air masses come from the north, but they are short duration. The average temperatures throughout the year oscillate between 20 and 35¼C (68-95¼F). The Eastern region enjoys warmer, drier weather. Aug to Oct main hurricane season occurs during the rainy season (May-Oct), before the dry season (Nov- April). North coast water temps can drop to 23¼C (74¼F). A light vest or shorty in the winter will meet all needs.

Lodging and Food
Casa particulars are CubaÕs take on AirBnB - rented rooms in private homes fr $15-30/n. Hotel Copacabana, Panorama and Neptune are close to La Setenta (fr $115/n). Most tourists get package deals in the huge Costa Verde resorts. Try ropa vieja (old clothes) stew.

Nature and Culture
Old Havana is fully deserving of UNESCO World Heritage Status. The town of Baracoa and the countryside surrounding it are a perfect place to relax under a palm tree and soak up the atmosphere. Kiting and diving throughout Cuba is superb.