Stormrider Guide to surfing Togo and Benin

Benin, AFRICA

Lomé-Rivage, Stuart Butler

Summary

+ Consistent, long range swell	- No epic spots
+ No crowds	- Light onshores
+ Friendly people	- Rain in swell season
+ Exploration possibilities	- Malaria

The Beninese/Togolese coast is made up of a series of steeply shelving beaches, almost entirely backed by lagoons that themselves sometimes play host to floating villages. The best waves break where a natural or manmade feature creates sandbanks, breaking up the endless shore-pound.

When to Go

The coastlines of Bénin and Togo receive surprisingly consistent swell, and during the May-Sept wet season there are usually rideable waves. The south-facing coastline means that both countries pick up long-distance southern-hemisphere swells, and having travelled halfway around the world they are super-clean and orderly, with long lulls between sets. The massive distance these swells travel means that there is a considerable decrease in swell size, and wave faces very rarely get above 6ft (2m). The main problem with the wet season is that the wind is a light onshore S-SW almost all the time. Perfect offshore conditions are a feature of the dry season, but swells are much rarer. Experienced West African surfers consider October or November to be the best months. Tides are small, but low tide can make a real difference to the quality of the beachbreaks.

Surf Spots

In the west of Togo, LomŽ-Rivage is located a couple of kilometres to the east of LomŽ centre and may be reached in a taxi. The spot itself usually has decent sandbars held in place by a large jetty, which has recently been extended. The massive harbour expansion project may have an effect on the surf, pollution and access, but it remains one of the most consistent spots. Visitors should be aware that this is also a private resort beach. Further east, itÕs straight beachbreak and the odd short jetty until you approach the border of Benin, where the beautiful German colonial town of AnŽcho (or AnŽho) hides one of the best waves in either country. A series of short rock jetties can hold some shape and the end jetty, which protects the rivermouth, will sculpt some longer and hollow rights down a triangulated sandbar. Slower shoulders or racy closeouts, but be warned, it is a little fickle, exposed to the wind and the lagoon/river outflow can bring muddy, polluted water. Crossing the border into BŽnin, the first town is called Grand-Popo. The nearby beach, Bouches de Roi, offers low-quality closeout shorebreak, mostly unsurfable, with powerful and dangerous rips, especially at the lagoon opening to the east. At the fascinating town of Ouidah, a more attractive beach has marginally better potential, and becomes surfable at lower tides. The nearby snake temple is worth a visit if the waves arenÕt doing it. A track known as Les Routes des Pches offers up more beachbreak surfing opportunities and the increased likelihood of encountering other surfers. Towards Cotonou, sandbars in front of the Sheraton and Novotel hotels will sometimes turn on, but pollution and beach crime can be an issue. The best waves in BŽnin often break on a large sandbar in the Cotonou Rivermouth. Unfortunately, this spot is very polluted, and the top to bottom barrels usually go unsurfed due to the dubious water quality. ThereÕs a more popular right wedge in the corner of the beach next to the extensive harbour wall called La Meduse. Close to the BŽnin-Nigeria border, KrakŽ receives more swell and can hold a good bank 50m (150yds) off the beach.

Statistics

dominant swell

S -S

S -SW

S -S

swell size (ft)

1-2

2-3

3-4

2-3

1-2

consistency (%)

dominant wind

S -W

average force

consistency (%)

water temp (C)

wetsuit

boardshorts

Travel Information

Weather
Bénin and Togo have hot, wet tropical climates, dominated by a strong southwest monsoon between April and October when heavy rainfall (1312mm/52in per year) can be expected every day. Even during the dry season, it still rains frequently near the coast. May-June and October are the rainiest months. Year round temperature changes little and it's almost always hot. March and April (just before the main rainy season breaks) can be almost unbearably hot and humid, but it’s worse inland than on the coast. The Harmattan is a strong, very warm and dusty wind that blows out of the desert between December and February. It makes perfect offshore conditions for the surf but swell is rare at this time of year. Dominant winds are SW and the water warm enough for boardies year-round.

Lodging and Food
Every major coastal town has somewhere to stay and standards are, for West Africa, good. Budget at least $20/day for a double room with a/c and a shower. Food is renowned as the best in West Africa, with lots of spicy sauces and plenty of variety. Rat is the local delicacy of the coast. Basic meals don't cost more than $1.

Nature and Culture
Any trip is likely to leave the traveller with tales of encounters with the supernatural. The beautiful towns of Ouidah, Porto Novo and Anécho are all Voodoo centres, with plenty to experience. Don't miss the fetish markets of Cotonou and Lomé.