Stormrider Guide to surfing West Réunion

Réunion Island, INDIAN OCEAN

Réunion island surf at St-Leu, Sylvain Cazenave

Summary

+ Consistent year round	- Shark attacks
+ Spot diversity	- Surfing bans
+ Scenic countryside	- Expensive
+ Superb St Leu	- Crazy traffic

Most of the 32 reported Reunion Island surf spots on the west coast break on fragmented barrier reefs, quite a distance from the beach.

This beautiful volcanic island is ideally placed to receive powerful and consistent Roaring Forties swells. Rain from the mountainous interior brings murky water – good habitat for the sharks that have made Réunion’s waters the most dangerous on the planet. Réunion is oft considered a one-wave island, rarely mentioned unless the boomerang bending lefts of St Leu are the topic of conversation. West Réunion is more like 3 separate wave zones, as the circular shape of the island offers variation on wind and swell direction. East of Saint-Pierre’s jetty rights and the short lefts of Grande-Anse and Manapany, sees the south coast start, named ‘La cote du Sud Sauvage’, mainly due to the constant swell and wind action, but also because of a major shift in the island’s geography. The coral reefs give way to lava flows and basalt rocks, backed by steep ravines leading up to the volcanic peaks that dominate the east coast, where rainfall is way higher than the west, and dense tropical vegetation cloaks the lower slopes. High precipitation inevitably creates murky water at the many rivermouths, which are the preferred restaurants of the large Réunion shark population. The NE coast from Sainte-Rose to Saint-Denis offers very little opportunity, despite being directly in the summer cyclone firing line and most locals will head to the NW coast for these rare swells.

When to Go

SW swells varying in size from 3-15ft can occur year-round, while the summer season is characterised by occasional NE tropical storms (about 10 per season). SE trades blow constantly with a more E-NE direction during the summer (Dec-Mar) and more S-SE during winter (June-Sept). The wind can also produce 2-6ft onshore windswell on the windward coast, and side/offshore on the SW coast. Tides are significant at shallow spots.

Surf Spots

St-Gilles is the area’s main centre with bars, shops, hotels, good nightlife, and at least 17 breaks scattered around 12kms of coastline. Cap Requin swings left round a coral sweep in moderate swells, needing high tides for depth and SE winds for groomed, lip bashing walls. The name is a clue to its sharkiness, like La Cimetiere beachbreak just north, scene of two recent attacks. A 1200m shark net protects crowded Boucan, where a fun, reliable left reef breaks in swell up to 10ft, while the gnarly right only jacks up and barrels in solid size. Aigrettes is mainly a friendly left wall for improvers to hone their cutties. Netted Roches Noires has a string of rights that cover most abilities from the rare, N-swell-loving slabs of Cachera and L’Escalier down to Banc de Sable where even beginners can surf in big swells. The three sections of La Digue lefts occasionally link up into one extremely long left ride, offering intermediates a fast wall through the mid-section and shredders a tricky barrel on the inside. The fabulous natural lagoon reserve at L’Hermitage Pass offers surfers the choice between an epic tubing left and a short, intense barrelling right. A 5 knot current makes paddling out easy and coming in a nightmare. The three waves at Trois-Bassins are swell and crowd magnets, having waves when everywhere else is flat. La Barriere is the fast shallow right and odd left that works in any N or S swell. Most people ride The Peak closer to shore - a nice little A-frame with feathering lips and tapered shoulders over lava rocks, accessible to most surfers. South of the cut is a fairly fat left wall that occasionally connects up on a due S swell. La Cafrine is tucked in behind the St-Leu reef offering beginners a nursery right over a deep, urchin-covered, coral slab. The famous lefts of St-Leu provide a truly world-class wave when stronger SW swells hit. It starts with a quick drop and open face wall, ideal for carving big turns, before bending sharply round the reef into a couple of bowly, hollow sections that throw out a shallow tube. Needs to be overhead to start linking up for the full 300m ride, but will work in sections when it is smaller. La Point-au-Sel is a voyeurs dream as massive caverns hit a straight section of reef that looks perfect, but is unmakeable. Etang-Salé is the windsurfers equivalent of St-Leu, as the SE wind blows cross-shore, but if the winds are calm or NE, then barrels will appear out on the fringing reef. The south coast around St-Pierre is very consistent at Pic du Diable and La Jetée but the current shark factor is too high.

Statistics

dominant swell

N -E

S -SW

N -E

swell size (ft)

4-5

5-6

6-7

7-8

3-4

consistency (%)

dominant wind

E -SE

SE -E

E -SE

average force

consistency (%)

water temp (C)

wetsuit

boardshorts

Travel Information

Weather
The high mountains mean the windward coast is very wet, with record humidity levels, while the W coast is rather dry. The cyclone season lasts from Dec-March with major destructive cyclones hitting every three years or so. May-June and Sept-Oct are usually the best weather months. Springsuits help with windchill when water bottoms out at 24ºC (75ºF) around August.

Lodging and Food
St-Leu’s 3-star Paladien Apolonia is plush but a double room starts at $175/night. Directly across the street from the wave is DodoSpot; a double room there starts at $32/night. The Campix campground is open March to November. Guesthouses ($40/$60) slightly out of town. Spicy Creole cuisine costs $15 or even less from bars.

Nature and Culture
Maïdo is a 2000m peak that has a breathtaking view over the W coast. Cirques like Mafate, Cilaos, and Salazie are great places for trekking and views. On the E side, Piton de la Fournaise is the second-most active volcano in the world.