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Blue Tomato

Stormrider Guide to surfing Okinawa

Japan, EAST ASIA


Okinawa surf at Blue Corner, Kudaka-Jima, John Callahan

Summary

+ Epic typhoon swells - Flat spring, mostly windswell
+ Subtropical reefbreaks - Shallow reefs, no beachbreak
+ Secret spots and islands - Mainly high tide spots
+ Low crime rates - Crowded premier spots

Okinawa Prefecture consists of 161 islands, scattered over 1,000km, towards Taiwan. These Ryukyu Islands are now the most popular Japanese beach resort destination, thanks to its mild climate and fringing coral reefs. Sandwiched between the Pacific Ocean and the East China Sea, Okinawa picks up virtually any swell going. Most waves break at higher tides over very shallow shelves of reef and/or basaltic rock and crowds are heavy at the main spots, but most outer reefs and islands are still uncharted.

When to Go

Okinawa is usually flat in spring, before summer S swells are created by tropical disturbances and typhoons. August-October sees several monthly typhoons and occasional super-typhoons, which deliver up to 12ft surf on all corners of the island. The west coast gets three to four typhoons and the east about double that. The west coast gets choppy 3-8ft short period windswell from Nov-March, accompanied by NW winds that usually swing NE-E, which means clean surf, but size drops quickly. The east coast is reasonably consistent during the winter, but mostly onshore due to predominant NE winds. Tidal range can reach 7ft on spring tides: surf 2h before and after high tide for safety.

Surf Spots

The north side is less crowded at spots like Ko-Chan, aka Hedo Point, a summer right that is best with an E swell and S-SE winds. The take-off is steep, into a hollow barrel, followed by a 30m smooth, workable section. There are some easier peaks around the port of Aha that work on low tide but the lefts at Aha-yoko can be hollow and heavy. Ikei Island has some reefs facing the Big Time Hotel that enjoy a wide swell window and are fun at headhigh. If it gets bigger, the west side produces powerful rights. During rare E typhoon swells, nearby Tengan Pier will be firing and crowded. A 1h ferry trip from Baten Harbour is Kudaka, which has a very long left reefbreak with lots of sections but when they all link up, with the biggest NE swells, itÕs a beauty! Suicide Cliffs is the most consistent crowded summer spot with tricky cliff access when itÕs wet. DonÕt go if the swell is above 5ft and NW winds blow into the scattered, punchy peaks. Walk a lot further to Castles, which is just as consistent, much less crowded and offers a left point with two long sections. The west side winter breaks like Aja get crowded despite having to rely on the rare combination of N windswells and SE winds. Without doubt, Sunabe Seawall is the main surfing arena with half a dozen reefbreaks including Typhoon Breaks long lefts, Hotels sectiony rights, 5-Rocks short peaks, Californias, Hawaiians and Bowls. All prefer high tides to cover the reef - intermediates to pros depending on size. Further north, Turtles can produce massive lefts, among the biggest waves rideable on Okinawa but crazy currents have been known to drag unwary surfers to the seawall. Kamikaze bodyboarders head to scenic Cape Zanpa to ride one of the three breaks at Mainside. Consistent, tubey rights are common but the Outside reef is definitely the islandÕs most radical wave! ThereÕs a left for the goofies as well. Check Maeda down the 300ft (100m) cliffs, for spinning lefts and rights plus good fishing and diving. Nago CityÕs closest spot is Buma; two fun right and left reefbreaks of poor consistency.

Statistics

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
dominant swell N -NE N -NE N -SW N -SW N -SW N -NE
swell size (ft) 3-4 2 1 2-3 3 3-4
consistency (%) 70 40 10 40 50 70
dominant wind NW -NE N -E E -SW E -SW N -E N -NE
average force F4-F5 F4 F4 F4 F4 F4-F5
consistency (%) 72 54 63 74 68 65
water temp (C) 19 21 25 28 26 22
wetsuit 3/2 springsuit boardshorts boardshorts boardshorts springsuit

Travel Information

Weather
Okinawa enjoys JapanÕs only subtropical oceanic climate, with an annual mean temp of 22.5¡C (73¼F). N winds in winter and S winds in summer when temps exceed 30¡C (86¼F) but squalls can also occur. Okinawa is in ÔTyphoon AlleyÕ and has 7-8 per year. Winter temps rarely drop below 10¡C (50¼F). Water temps range from 20¡C (68¼F) to 30¡C (86¼F). In winter, the west side cools down so bring a springsuit. Then, warm water migrates north with the Kuroshio (the ÔBlack CurrentÕ) bringing 6 months of boardshort surfing.

Lodging and Food
City hotels in Naha, Sunabe, Chatan-cho area on the west side and beach resorts in the central and northern parts are $50-60 a night. Island resorts like the Big AJ Resort on Ikei from $120. Facilities are very good. B&B costs from $45/n/dbl. Expect $15-20 for a meal, drink Awamori!

Nature and Culture
Beautiful white sand beaches, 40 golf courses, good diving or Togyu Bull fighting. See the Festival of Sun, Ocean & Joggers and Dragon boat races. ItÕs the land of Karate and the Iriomote wildcat, a Ôliving fossilÕ.