Stormrider Guide to surfing Tahiti and Moorea

French Polynesia, PACIFIC OCEAN

Teahupoo, Laurent Masurel

Summary

+ Powerful barrelling waves	- Very expensive
+ Year-round consistency	- Difficult access
+ Beautiful landscapes	- Localism at some spots
+ Chilled-out island lifestyle	- Sharp coral reefs

Tahiti sits at the centre of French Polynesia and now, thanks to the relatively recent discovery of Teahupoo, has become an undeniable focus for the surf world as the most challenging of playgrounds. However itÕs not all scary square barrels, there are some fun walls at various passes and even the odd beachbreak style wave to be found. On the whole, the quality of the spots is exceptional and the waves are varied, as swells arrive from both hemispheres, lighting up the coastlines of Moorea and Tahiti.

When to Go

At a southern latitude of 17¡, Tahiti is perfectly exposed to the super-consistent S/SW swells, which hammer the S coast year-round, but peak between April and Oct. Expect the surf to range from 4 to 15ft in season and 2-5ft in the off-season. Exposure to NW/N swells between Nov and March is less generous, arriving in the 3ft-8ft range. Dominant trade winds come from the E, tending towards SE during the May to Oct dry season (Maraamu), whilst the wet season (Toerau), sees the wind coming more from the NE. Mornings will usually be glassy and tidal range is very small.

Surf Spots

When the N swells roll in, Moorea Island is worth the effort for its quality north coast reef passes. Cooks Bay Pass has what some call a fun left, despite the coral reef being close under fin. Too much E in the wind will mess it up although the shallower, nastier right across the channel will be cleaner. Take a dugout as currents and distance rule out paddling. Hauru is a narrow cut in the fringing reef near the Intercontinental on the north coast, which seems to favour lefthanders with a bit of W in the swell. Fast and shallow is the theme while the right is even worse and only for chargers with little regard for the boiling shut down sections. There is an easier left back at the entrance to Opunohu Bay. Currents get really strong and the nearby motuÕs are shark diving hotspots. At headhigh, Haapiti is an easy roll-in to a very long, slopey wall as it tours the curve of coral that is always deeper than the gin-clear water makes it seem. Even improvers can manage, but things hot up as the size increases to double overhead, when the drop steepens, the odd barrel section beckons and the river-like current heading out to sea cranks up. Extra inches of foam and shoulder muscle helps with the 20-40min paddle from town Ð better to hire canoes to get out there safely and quickly. Attracts plenty of surfers, but the vibe is often friendly and inclusive for all abilities. Wind can mess it up and kiters will descend in the afternoons. Moorea also gets plenty of decent waves through the S swell season, and if itÕs big enough, SE-SW lines will slip through the Chenal de Moorea then wrap around the eastern point near the airport. Temae hugs the coralline shelf, very close to shore, providing a righthand barrel spectacle on a par with Backdoor, but much longer. When itÕs on, which isnÕt often since it needs non-trade-winds, expect air drops into multiple caverns as it parallels the shoreline, getting shallower and uglier as it turns inside out. Temae locals covet this inconsistent right, so tread lightly and be sure of your abilities. On Tahiti Papenoo can provide a fun, hollow range of peaks around the rivermouth, which helps shape some sand and rock bars, along with bringing pollution and a shark problem after rains. Holds the crowd that come in N swells and is usually cool, but there might be some vibe when the left is really firing. Cops the trades pretty bad so check it early. Out on an exposed, hammerhead reef, Pointe Venus follows the trend of Tahitian rights by being shallow and sketchy, requiring more than a little skill to negotiate the rapid tubes. Needs a small to moderate NE swell and S quadrant winds as it will get out of control in bigger swells. While the Bay de Matavai is famous for being CookÕs landing spot, its long curve of volcanic sand is fairly poor for waves with lots of close-outs, but the bays towards Arue hold a few reefbreaks like Taharaa, surrounded by plush hotels and further on a very shallow left and right at La Fayette, where there is also some dumpy shorebreak, suited to bodyboards. Close to Papeete is Taapuna, the original Tahitian tube garden and popular destination wave for those who want a hollow, dredging and technically testing lefthander, a couple of notches below Teahupoo. Any W swell and any E wind will work, so it is consistent, crowded with good surfers and suited to experienced reefbreak surfers. Usual problems of being way out there, in waters strafed by current and a local crew who demand as much respect as the wave. Generally considered an easier alternative than Taapuna, Sapinus can still throw a decent tube especially on its inside section and offers some nice walled rides on the pass opposite the Tahiti Museum. Deep in the bay is a fun beach/shorebreak type set-up near the rivermouth when big W swells are running and thereÕs something for everyone in a chilled out atmosphere. Just down the coast thereÕs more waves in the bay and on the pass at Paea. Hollow, fast and shallow are often used to describe Tahitian waves and definitely apply to this distant fringe of reef at Passe de Maraa. Needs as much water as possible and some S in the swell to stop it shutting down horribly. The bonus is a lack of crowds and occasionally the right across the fast flowing channel will fire. Experts only. Beginners can head for the good beachbreak in Papara, which is a nice rest from the intensity of the surrounding reefs. Holds some curvy corners in larger swells and attracts some high performance riders looking to cut loose without getting cut. ThereÕs also some outside reef action for the chargers. On the Iti Peninsula, the Tapuehara Pass holds the flawless lefts of Vairao, yet another epic barrel spinning across the coral shallows 2km out. The S swell window and NE-E wind combo make it consistent, it packs some serious punch without huge crowds and like most waves in the world, is less intense than its neighbour, that freak of nature known as Teahupoo. Often touted as the ÔWorldÕs Heaviest WaveÕ, Teahupoo has a fearsome reputation, encapsulated by the infamous Laird Hamilton tow-in shots that graced the cover of many surf mags in 2000. What sets Teahupoo aside is the sheer power and ferocity as a lip a few feet thick throws more out than up, creating a shape more rectangular than almond and making a mockery of most face measurements. More S in the swell will calm the beast slightly, but it is the straight on SWÕers that slam the reef and open up the caverns along the short 75-100m run for your life line-up. ItÕs all about the drop really, which is hyper-critical here and those able to set an early rail into the gasping tubes will do better. Mistakes are swiftly and properly punished as the highly visible reef runs close to dry so quickly, pushing the unlucky ones into the lagoon and the coral is famed for infecting cuts. When itÕs smaller and from the W, there is even the odd right, a la Backdoor, but dont get caught paddling back out. Teahupoo consistently pulls in more swell than anywhere on Tahiti, but getting the ideal NE wind is less common, especially in the high season. Hazards like sharks, motorised traffic, the long paddle, crowds, localism and sunburn are nothing compared to the wave and the reef. ThereÕs a beachbreak at the rivermouth for the kids and it sometimes holds up a nice right wall for turns and airs, giving an opt out for most mortals that shouldnÕt really be attempting big Teahupoo.

Statistics

dominant swell

NW -N

SE -SW

NW -N

swell size (ft)

5-6

7-8

6-7

5-6

consistency (%)

dominant wind

NE -SE

E -SE

NE -SE

average force

consistency (%)

water temp (C)

wetsuit

boardshorts

Travel Information

Weather
During the wet season from Nov to April, there will be a heavy downpour every other day. El Ni–o years are very wet. Cyclones hit the country on occasions. In the dry season the high mountains effect the weather patterns and cause the S coast to see some rain. The temps are near perfect at 23¡-30¡C/74¼-86¼F year-round. The water hovers around 25-27¡c (77¼F-80¼F).

Lodging and Food
At the bottom of the accommodation range are the dorm beds at Teamo (Papeete Youth Hostel), which charges at least $36/n. A mid-range favourite is Taharuu Surf Lodge in Papara (fr $85/n). In Teahupoo try Tauhanihani Village Lodge ($100/n), Vanira Lodge (fr$140/n), Te Pari Village or one of the other local ÒFarŽÓ from $90/n. Moorea Surf Bed & Breakfast at Haapiti have private rooms with breakfast starting from $135. Board rental is $45 per day. ThereÕs plenty of motu style high end hotels and also Camping Nelson from $15/n. Eat from the roulottes (rolling food trucks) where locals eat simple island meals from $10, but more frequently youÕll spend around $20-30 on a meal.

Nature and Culture
Head up into the beautiful mountains, visit some of the caves, go fishing, diving and snorkelling or just chill out amongst the lush landscape. Occasional dugout races are worth watching.