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Stormrider Guide to surfing Efate

Vanuatu, PACIFIC OCEAN


Reef pass between Peli and Nguna Islands, Sarkis Images/Alamy

Summary

+ Quality coral reefbreaks - S-SW swell shadow
+ Yachting and sailing stop-over - Lack of consistent spots
+ Warm and empty line-ups - SE swell/wind exposure
+ Good tourism facilities - Expensive flight and trip

Vanuatus' sleepy capital and economic centre Port-Vila sits on Efate, pretty much in the middle of the archipelago. It is set within a magnificent natural harbour inside MŽlŽ Bay surrounded by half a dozen spots and is more associated with honeymoons than surfaris. There are no lagoons or barrier reefs: there are only fringing reefs ranging from 100m to 2km wide. Those with time and patience will undoubtedly score some good waves, but the inconsistency and onshore wind factors make Efate a bit of a gamble for a week or two surf trip.

When to Go

New Caledonia blocks 100% of the SW swells and New Zealand makes it hard for straight S swells to make it right up to Vanuatu. SE groundswells from systems travelling east to South America or windswells from the trades, hit Vanuatu with some strength and consistency. Most exposed spots will be blown-out by 9am, so wake up at dawn. Surf is rarely big, 2-8ft being the normal range. Coral Sea cyclones produce occasional NW-W swells, with ideal NE-E wind conditions. From 1940 to 1985, 58 severe tropical storms and cyclones affected Vanuatu, 65% of which occurred in January and February. The trade winds are easterly in southern and central Vanuatu, and southerly in the far north where there is a clear equatorial climatic influence. Tidal range can reach 1.6m on spring tides, averaging out at 1-1.2m, but is enough to change the surf conditions on high tide only surf spots.

Surf Spots

To the west of MŽlŽ is DevilÕs Point, a scary scene for radical lefts, offshore with the trades! On rare big swells, mediocre waves break inside MŽlŽ Bay at Black Sand Beach. Many of the resorts are close to quality reefbreaks, which makes checking conditions easy. The tip of Pango Point (aka Pounders) is clad in coral, where lefts will speed down the line in SE swells at higher tides. Barrels from take-off then sectiony walls offer a few hits before shutting down over the aggressive polyps. Breakas can be described as a tube orgy when it is on, but the barrelling lefts need high tide and no trades. Sucky at the peak before shouldering off and there are some rights as well, especially if the swell has a bit of W in it. Take the free ferry to Erakor Island, a private resort island with many water activities, but few surfers to ride the short high tide lefts unfurling on the western reef. Lower swell exposure than Pango Pt or Breakas, but it does handle the trades better, as do the difficult, sectioning lefts a long walk out on Erakor Point. Tapi Point has probably the longest waves on Efate, albeit quite sectiony. ThereÕs also a right on the island, 700m from Eratap resort. Teouma BayÕs protected beachies break very softly, perfect for beginners, although its pseudonym Shark Bay reveals the main danger. Further away is Soumabal Point, a potential left reefbreak but again trade wind exposure is maximum, so itÕs likely to be disorganised. Forari Bay has a low consistency set-up, with some fast, hollow lefts in any E swell and any W wind. ThereÕs a right on the south side of the bay that will be cross/offshore in the trades and is definitely worth a regular check. The small cove at Epao (aka White Cows) holds a right reef that tends to stay smoother for longer in SE trades. 1-2km offshore from the Beachcomber, Mangea Reefs, soak up the worst the wind and waves can throw at them. Windy, shifty and sharky as hell. Boat out on a calm wind day. Check Tikilas Pass on Nguna where the right has some form.

Statistics

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
dominant swell E -SE E -SE E -SE E -SE E -SE E -SE
swell size (ft) 2-3 3 3-4 4-5 3-4 2
consistency (%) 23 34 42 38 33 24
dominant wind NE -SE E -SE E -SE E -SE E -SE E -SE
average force F3 F3 F3-F4 F3-F4 F3 F3
consistency (%) 22 35 43 38 39 24
water temp (C) 28 28 26 25 26 27
wetsuit boardshorts boardshorts boardshorts boardshorts boardshorts boardshorts

Travel Information

Weather
The best time for good weather is April/May to October when temps range from 18-28¡C (64-82¡F). January to March is hot (26-34¡C/79-94¡F), often wet and prone to cyclones, but being low season itÕs a good time of year to take advantage of travel deals. Water remains tropical year-round but in July-August, anticipate the windchill with a shorty.

Lodging and Food
Pango Paradise Cove Resort has 10 self contained units and 6 deluxe studios: $1087 for 5n/2p. Erakor Island Resort, waterfront bungalows (from $215/dble). Breakas Beach Resort $200/dble inc breakfast. Treetops Lodge bungalows $460/7 nights, inc breakfast. Kaiviti Hotel ($90/dble). Guest Houses like basic Tafea ($30/dble). Expect to pay $10 for a cheap meal.

Nature and Culture
ItÕs heaven for diving, fishing and golf courses. Numerous kava ÔnakamalsÕ are found around Port Vila. Mele Cascades are only a 12km drive.

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