Stormrider Guide to surfing Costa Verde

Peru, SOUTH AMERICA

Herradura, Gonzalo Barandarian

Summary

+ Highly consistent swell	- Not Peru's best surf
+ Great spot density	- Cold water
+ Easy access and cheap	- Coastal winter fog
+ Lima entertainment	- City crowds and pollution

Peru’s surf culture goes way back to the ‘Totora reed horses’ ridden since 1000BC, and more recently, Felipe Pomar’s world title victory ahead of Nat Young in 1965. A true surf city, Lima was first surfed in the mid 1920’s, as a dedicated group of riders formed the Waikiki Club in Miraflores, one of the first three surf clubs in the world. Peru’s capital is constantly outgrowing its boundaries, accommodating one third of the population so crowds, noise and pollution are serious issues. Most surfers prefer to head to the quieter Punta Hermosa area, half an hour south, but surfing the city remains a viable option.

When to Go

Regular 4-15ft (1.2-5m) S-SW swells come from the lows down in the southern latitudes, along with a minimum of 2-3ft (0.6-1m) swell produced by constant S winds associated with the cold Humboldt Current. The constant temperature difference between the hot, dry land and the relatively cold water drives the prevailing S-SE winds. The straight S side-shore sea breeze blows 30-40% of the time while it’s SE 35-55%, which is offshore at the NW facing spots and southern corners. Usually, SE morning winds turn to S after noon. Tides don’t matter much and tide tables can be obtained at the better surf shops in Lima.

Surf Spots

Isla San Lorenzo is Peru’s largest island, lying 4km (2.5mi) offshore from the city shores. A left will break at El Cabezo on the largest NW/SW swells, but is little documented since the island is deserted with no regularly scheduled trips. El Camotal is another ‘secret island’ and it’s possible, although not recommended, to paddle from la Punta. The wave breaks both ways and gets occasionally hollow, but wind exposure usually makes the wave face choppy. The Costa Verde is a string of beaches located at the foot of the cliffs that plunge down from the Miraflores district of Lima. Unchallenging, consistent lefts and rights break at Punta Roquitas, where boulders roll around in the shorebreak. Pampilla looks just the same with small conditions but the shifty peaks develop into a better right in larger swells. The Jose Duany Cup, the longest running surfing contest in Peru is organised there every year around February or March. Waikiki’s soft breaking rights and lefts prove enjoyable on a longboard. Peru’s surfing culture is encapsulated in the original surf club that is definitely worth a visit. The next beaches, Makaha and Redondo boast the same type of waves, attracting beginners and longboarders between the rock piers holding shops and restaurants. South of Miraflores, the popular Barranco district’s beaches face NW, requiring larger S to SW swells to wrap in. They also work on every NW to N swell. Pavos has a nice sandy beach, but this beachbreak is only suitable for bodyboarders. 150m (450ft) south, Barranquito is an organised jetty left, that was popular during the ‘60s and ‘70s. Rights also break on the other side of the jetty. Laniakea is another spot named after a famous Hawaiian break; it is a decent righthander equally popular with early surfers from Lima. Sombrillas or Ala Moana lefts get really good when strong southerly swells hit the area. It has an easy paddling channel and winds are offshore most of the time. There are more boulder beaches in the Agua Dulce area and Triangulo is the one when all the other beaches are closed out. It’s very protected from both swell and wind, creating mellow, rolling peaks that don’t break well very often. La Herradura is the best pointbreak in Lima, isolated in a relatively deserted, horseshoe bay in the Chorrillos district. This powerful left breaks along a high cliff for up to 500m (1500ft) split into three sections. The hollow take-off becomes a long workable wall before spinning through a tubular inside section. Requires a solid swell to start breaking and gets better as the size increases, holding up to 12ft (4m) faces on the best days. Winds are usually not a problem since the dominant S wind blows offshore and low tide is better. Such a quality wave in the middle of such a big city draws plenty of crowds, exceeding 50 surfers out on this experts only break. Old timers claim the construction of a coastal road in the early ‘80s vastly reduced the waves' quality, but it is still worth waiting around for. South of Lima, Villa is a small swell beach where hollow, punchy peaks need slack wind conditions. A good option when other breaks are struggling but can get heavy close-outs and strong longshore currents.

Statistics

dominant swell

S -SW

swell size (ft)

3-4

4-5

5-6

4-5

3-4

consistency (%)

dominant wind

SE -S

average force

F3-F4

consistency (%)

water temp (C)

wetsuit

springsuit

3/2

Travel Information

Weather
Lima’s climate is temperate with any equatorial heat moderated by the Pacific Ocean, which sweeps cold Antarctic currents northward along the coast. It hardly ever rains, daily variations are minimal, temps are never too hot or too cold (maybe in the deepest winter) but that does not mean straight sunshine everyday. Actually, the land/sea temperature difference brings a constant fog, called Garua, except Dec-March. It is a type of very light rain with very small, almost invisible particles of water. Water requires a light fullsuit May-Nov and a springsuit the rest of the time. Even if the water gets much warmer, avoid the disastrous el Niño years.

Lodging and Food
Lima is among the most expensive places in the country, but there is a wide range of accommodation options. Miraflores is a safer, expensive neighborhood; try the Imperial Inn ($31/room) or the trendier Hostal Lucerna ($53/dble). Both are a short cab ride to Costa Verde. Backpackers should head to 151 ($10/p) or Mochilero’s in Barranco ($8/p)

Nature and Culture
Explore the city’s colonial past or witness the Inca’s wealth and culture in the city museums. Pachacamac ruins are among the largest pre-Columbian settlement on the Peruvian coast but can’t compare with Macchu Picchu; save time and budget for a short hop to the Andes.