Stormrider Guide to surfing La Libertad

Peru, SOUTH AMERICA

Chicama, Javier Fernandez

Summary

+ Perfect uncrowded lefthand pointbreaks	- Dull coastal scenery
+ Excellent wind patterns	- Chilly water
+ Close to the Andes	- Petty thefts in the cities
+ Historical sites	- Difficult, tedious access

In this crowded surf world it is almost unbelievable to think that the longest left hand pointbreak on earth is reeling along right now with very few crowding issues even when there is a surf camp right on the doorstep and a speedboat in the lineup. It breaks mainly on sand, is relatively gentle and is also consistently offshore. This utopian wave is Chicama, but amazingly, there’s more to this part of Peru than just Chicamas’ endless walls. As if one world’s longest wave wasn’t enough, there’s also Pacasmayo, which probably lines up a bit better than Chicama and is possibly a bit longer in the makeable single ride category. Add in Punta Huanchaco, another 800m of sectiony lefts in the home of the Totora reed Caballito riders, a popular, tourist party town and this La Libertad zone looks like the place to go for all surfers past the early beginner stage. Cooler water, sea fog and strong currents are not enough to detract from one of the quintessential South American surf experiences.

When to Go

Regular 4-12ft (1-4m) S-SW swells come from lows circulating the southern ocean between New Zealand and Cape Horn, propagating mainly SW pulses off their leading edges. The average size of 5-6ft (1.5-2m) for autumn, winter and spring means flat days are really rare on the most exposed points. Swell consistency exceeds 95% from March to August and only drops to the high 80s during summer. The other noteworthy fact is the average period never drops below 13 seconds, with 18-20 second days a regular occurrence, especially in April, May and June when the biggest swells are expected. Dominant winds are due S, with more SE early and maybe a touch of SW in the afternoon. This means offshore in many of the NW-facing bays, where most of the lefthand points are located. Tidal ranges are small.

Surf Spots

To the north of Chicama is Puerto Eten, which can be found to the west of Chiclayo - it’s a left and right peak, breaking over some dangerous rocks. Next is Pacasmayo, the first of endless lefts, that catches loads of swell and peels forever. Chicama is to be found halfway between Lima and the border of Ecuador. Obviously there are some bad things about this place and they are the reasons why it has remained empty. The landscape around Chicama is extremely dull, the water quite cold and there's nowhere decent to stay, but this is not enough of a reason to fully explain its unpopularity. One of the main contributing reasons is the lack of media exposure, thanks to consistently bad light making inviting looking line-up shots very rare. This is a contradiction though – when you ask any surf traveller where the longest wave in the world is, the answer is invariably Chicama. Whatever the reason, it doesn’t alter the fact that the length of the ride can be truly amazing. The actual distance between the take-off point and the fishing jetty where the wave ends is 4km (2.5mi), although to be fair no one has actually ridden it for that distance. On good days most people end up catching 3-5 different waves on a journey down the point. It would be a rare day when it becomes necessary to paddle back to the line-up. It is far easier to keep surfing waves down the length of the point, get out and then walk back up to the take-off zone. The wave could happily handle a crowd of 100 surfers, but it would be unusual to see 10 or 20 out here at any time. Unbelievably, surfers get bored of this endless left and normally head north to Puemape, which catches more swell and also peels forever. This is also true of Punta Prieta, S of Chicama. Another place worth checking out is Punta Huanchaco, home of the tortora reed caballito riders, maybe the world’s first surfers. Fishermen have been riding the lefts back to shore at this spot since 2400BC. For today’s surfer it offers easy and super consistent waves. Huanchaco is the only place around here with a bit of life and even some greenery. If Huanchaco gets big, the best bet is to either head back to Chicama or go to Salaverry Harbour, where between the jetties an A-frame peak breaks that holds big waves and has a handy channel on either side of it. None of these spots get N swells. The Bayovar Peninsula does though, and is also home to another perfect left pointbreak. If this doesn’t appeal then further north are the warmer waters and N swells of the Máncora region.

Statistics

dominant swell

S -SW

swell size (ft)

2-3

4-5

2-3

consistency (%)

dominant wind

SE -S

average force

consistency (%)

water temp (C)

wetsuit

springsuit

3/2

Travel Information

Weather
Peru’s semi-arid climate is ideal for travelling. Temps are never too hot or too cold, (except maybe in deepest winter), and it hardly ever rains. However this doesn’t mean constant sunshine, the differences between land and sea temps creates a near permanent mist, which gives a very grey and depressing air to everything, not improved by the bleak countryside. Dec-March is about the only time that you can expect clear skies. A word of warning is not to visit this area during El Niño years. The water may be warmer but it will rain all day, every day, bridges and roads will be washed away and the water will turn a muddy brown. In the water you will require a 3/2 steamer from May-Nov and a spring suit for the rest of the time.

Lodging and Food
A cheap and popular pension in Chicama is El Hombre (fr$7) or Los Delfines from $10/n. Another good option is the Huanchaco Hostel, facing a consistent left point. The boutique Chicama Surf Hotel and Spa has luxury rooms starting from $100/n/p or $130/n/dbl that includes breakfast, sauna, gym, jacuzzi, wifi, etc. Their big draw card is the zodiac tow-back service; $30/d/p for 2 sessions. Seafood is excellent value at around $5 a meal or some guest houses let you use the kitchen to self cater.

Nature and Culture
The Huanchaco Festival with the “Caballitos de Tortora” and some surf contests take place in May. Close by are the remains of Chan-Chan, an old Moche Indian site. For hiking and climbing, go to Huaraz, home of the famous Cordillera Blanca a 6000m high mountain.