Stormrider Guide to surfing Guanacaste Ð North

Costa Rica, CENTRAL AMERICA & CARIBBEAN

Playa Naranjo and Roca Bruja (Witches Rock), Philippe Chevodian

Summary

+ Consistent year-round	- Crowded
+ Fun-sized waves	- Oppressively hot weather
+ Waves for all abilities	- Millions of insects
+ Rich in wildlife	- Tourist price inflation

Volcanic black sand, squeaky white sand and craggy reef can all be found in the northern province of Guanacaste, where long distance Pacific swells arrive from the near 180¡ swell window with reliable consistency, firing up the well-documented wonder-walls like Potrero Grande, Roca Bruja and the busy peaks of Tamarindo. Quality reefs at Avellanas and Playa Negra provide the challenge and laid-back beachbreaks around Nosara cater for the steady influx of new surfers. Tamarindo has become the epicentre of Costa Rican surfing, particularly during the dry season when clean, offshore conditions, sunshine and easy access make it a veritable tropical paradise for experienced surfers and beginners alike. Guanacaste province abuts Nicaragua, so the consistent, almost year-round offshores are more prevalent at the northern breaks like Potrero Grande and Playa Naranjo (Ollie's Point & Witches Rock). This area is surrounded by National Park and requires time, money and effort to access, usually by boat from Playa del Coco. The reward for all the effort is one of the funnest rights in CR or crystalline tubes in one of the country's most recognisable line-ups. Down the coast is the magnetic party town of Tamarindo, where surf tourists of all creeds congregate to test their mettle at the various reef, rivermouth and beachbreaks that surround the town. Tamarindo is not the place to come for empty waves, but just down the coast past the growing surf school towns of Nosara and Guiones, the southern coast of the province sees plenty of less frequented beachbreak.

When to Go

The major swell season is April to Oct, when swells hit from a variety of angles. S-SW swells coming off the Roaring Forties produce numerous 3-10ft swells - lows located off New Zealand give the best direction. Tropical storms off Mexico produce NW swells. Dec to April sees NW arctic swells, which, when combined with frequent offshores and no rain, makes this the best season for clean 3-4ft waves almost every day. Winds are not usually a factor, however there is a wet but gentle SW-W monsoon period from May to December. Typically, mornings are offshore, afternoons onshore. Winter sees a dry period with a lot of light winds from-any direction, but predominately from the NNE-E. Tides can reach 4m, drastically changing the waves.

Surf Spots

Located on the Pacific coast near the Nicaraguan border is the famous, perfect, right rivermouth pointbreak of Potrero Grande, aka OllieÕs Point and featured on Endless Summer II. It was named because an airstrip nearby was used by US Colonel Oliver North to land weapons for the Nicaraguan Contras. While US Colonel Oliver North is long gone, the name OllieÕs Point has stuck to this way above average righthand pointbreak. While an expensive, long boat trip from Playas del Coco is the only way in, it doesnÕt deter the crowds who flock here in a big S or medium W swell to sample the plenty-long, ruler-edged walls perfect for thwacking and the cover-ups that section off at low tide. Ideal for dialling in some moves thanks to its predictability and forgiving nature, Potrero Grande is one of the funnest rides in CR. Access through the national park is only possible in the dry season and hazards include getting bogged, small crocs, small sharks and very large mosquitoes! This is the wave featured on ÒEndless Summer IIÓ. ItÕs not possible to stay on land in the national park, but there is a charter boat that can spend the night offshore and get you into the line-up first thing before other boats have been able to make the 35km, up to 3hr journey from Playa Cocos. The 6km long Playa Naranjo is another world-class wave. Facing a huge rock called Roca Bruja meaning Witches Rock, which was deposited in the sea by an angry volcano 50kÕs away, ultra-fast, zippy walls streak down the sand, offering ample crystalline tubes and good length of ride. Needs higher tides to prevent the close-outs and some S in the swell. Most surfers coagulate just south of the rivermouth, where the sandbars pile up, but there are always more peaks to the south. North of the rivermouth is usually smaller. The only effective way to reach these spots is by boat from Playa del Coco (where there is an inconsistent left) or by 4x4 in the dry season, but like most national parks, thereÕs no accommodation so camping is the only possibility. Crowds have grown massively in recent years. Hazards include saltwater crocodiles around the rivermouths. The north-facing bays of Potrero and Brasilito are fairly poor beachbreak with some smaller straight-handers for beginners, but the left off Flamingo Point is more consistent with sloping walls over a gnarly reef and occasional good form without a frothing crowd. Needs lower tides and a bigger SW swell to be a destination, while the left at Brasilito in front of the golf course will be better in W-NW. TamarindoÕs wide, rivermouth-dissected bay has become Costa RicaÕs blueprint surf town with its handful of user-friendly waves and a laid-back vibe. At the northern end is Playa Grande, which is an excellent beachbreak and famous turtle breeding ground, 30mins walk or 20 mins drive from Tamarindo. It picks up the maximum S-SW swell available and unpackages it along a choice of quality triangular bars at mid tide. Goldilocks factor means low is too closey, while high gets a bit backwashy. With a decent swell several good spots break in Tamarindo itself, including EsteroÕs consistent, fast rivermouth peaks, as well as smaller, beginner-friendly, straight-hander beachbreaks and several reefbreaks like Pico Peque–o, Diria and HenryÕs. TheyÕre all well situated for SW-NW swells, but crowds are a constant theme from clueless beginners to ripping locals. South of town, Langosta rivermouth holds some lefts and rights over scattered rocks that tend to appear at lower tides. The beachbreak to the south of the river can hold some thumping barrels on occasion without huge numbers. Avellanas is blessed with six named breaks along the 2km strand starting with Little Hawaii way up at the northern point that holds bigger SW swells and smaller crowds. El Estero is the rivermouth break which is always bigger and peaks up at a big rock. El Palo and the Right are classic beachbreak style sandbars anchored by reef, attracting a crowd to the skate-park walls and pits that draw in both SW and NW swells. The Left is right in front of the parking lot and zooms over some unfriendly lava, getting sketchy as the tide drops. Finally, thereÕs an outside bommie peak for fearless experts. Outstanding, crystal-blue rights form off the north end reef of Playa Negra attracting plenty to the mid tide barrels and easy accommodation. Will break through the tide with enticing walls, hooks and ramps before the lower tide brings the draining tubes, which require speed and positioning to make. There are some lefts to the north and more reefy peaks to the south. The coast leading to Nosara is full of potential surf, easily accessible in the dry season with a 4WD. Playa Marbella holds some picture perfect spinning peaks over scattered rocks and black sands south of Playa Frijola. Lefts at the south end off the point work at high and are always smaller, while the north end beachbreaks like low and draw in the SW swell. Breaks with power and purpose and works in both the wet and dry season. Often crowded with rippers looking to get shacked. Playa Ostional offers, fun, lip-smacking walls without a big crowd, making it perfect for intermediates and longboarders. Prefers NW swell to get the longer rights going that break off one of the rock outcrops that divide this long beach. Better at higher tides and wonÕt handle bigger swells. A thin ribbon of rock separates Ostional from Playa Nosara, a long crescent of black sand that entertains the multitudes of surf schools and beginners that have been drawn to this area. From knee to headhigh these peaks are quite manageable and not too powerful, while still holding good shape. Playa Pelada is a clutch of small bays with a bit of S wind and swell protection. Slow, shouldering left at the south end may appeal to improvers, but itÕs the righthander off the middle reef that needs NW swell and a pushing tide, which pulls in the crowds for some fun rip and race walls when it eventually gets good. Ride the current out close to the rocks. Postage stamp take-off area means the locals can get twitchy. Nosara has grown into a major coastal town with an array of lodging and surf camp options, who have set up to take advantage of Playa Guiones consistent and user-friendly waves. Multiple peaks pop-up along its length and can peel for deceptively long distances. ItÕs not the most powerful set-up and below headhigh, currents are usually mild. Holds shape as it gets bigger, but becomes a chore to get out the back beyond the regular close-outs, especially at low tide. Loads of room to move for all abilities, but advanced surfers will want to head north or south to find more powerful, hollow waves. Lots of stingrays about so shuffle your feet when walking out at low tide.

Statistics

dominant swell

S -NW

S -SW

swell size (ft)

4-5

consistency (%)

dominant wind

NE -E

SW -W

NE -E

average force

consistency (%)

water temp (C)

wetsuit

boardshorts

Travel Information

Weather
Guanacaste is the driest part of Costa Rica with lots of sunshine and hot temperatures, often accompanied by oppressive 100% humidity. A fan or A/C is a must for sleeping. The dry season runs from December to April, but the rest of the year is not excessively rainy anyway, unlike the Caribbean side. Expect evening rain pretty much every day and clear mornings. San JosŽ, at 1100m escapes the worst of the heat. The water is warm year-round; a rash vest will protect you from the sun and maybe a shorty for the occasional strong NE wind raising the wind chill factor in the dry season.

Lodging and Food
Costs have risen fast over the years, stay in one of the many Tamarindo hotels ($90+/dble) or in cheaper cabinas ($35/dble). Avellanes, Junquilla and Nosara are good places to stay. A typical restaurant bill is $12-15.

Nature and Culture
National parks (e.g. Santa Rosa) swarm with monkeys, toucans, crocodiles and snakes. Lots of the beaches are prime turtle nesting sites. On the odd flat day the volcanoes (Arvenal) are spectacular.