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Stormrider Guide to surfing Peniche

Portugal, EUROPE


Peniche surf at Supertubes, Sully

Summary

+ Wide swell window - Summer onshores
+ Flexible wind and swell combos - Increasingly crowded
+ Quality beach and reefbreaks - Cool water year-round
+ Relatively cheap Euro destination - Sardine factory stink!

Peniche surf is located either side of a small peninsula at right angles to the Portuguese coast which creates wind and swell protection from most angles.

The age-old seafaring traditions are strong in Peniche, which is home to one of Portugal’s biggest fishing fleets. Just to the north, rising out of the submarine canyon, Nazaré detonates some of the biggest, scariest waves on the planet.


When to Go

Portugal is the European yardstick for year-round consistency, and Peniche stylishly handles the regular NW swells. Average swell size is around 8-10ft in winter and summer is usually in the 4-6ft range. Storms are pretty frequent, but the peninsulas give flexibility during different wind and swell combinations. The Nortada is the dominant wind, blowing from the NW-N from April to September. Winter winds come from all directions but the standard pattern sees more NE-E winds and the occasional storms bringing S-SW winds. Max tidal range hits 3.6m and greatly affect where you surf.

Surf Spots

Nazaré has become a global big-wave phenomenon, thanks to a finger of deep water that points directly at the beach, beckoning some of the largest surfable waves on the planet to smash onto the sands of Praia Norte. Huge, heavy and sometimes hollow beach peaks for the insanely brave. Currents can be strong, and giant clean up sets are guaranteed when it’s on, which isn’t that often as it’s fully wind-exposed. The main town beach offers a sheltered little wedge on big swells. The huge wind and swell exposed beach at Foz do Arelho is punctured by a couple of small rivermouths that form good banks with minimal crowds. It’s basically the same beach 10km south at Ferrel, where the shifting peaks are super-consistent until the N winds shred it. The languid Lagide left is a long ride over a shallow, urchin-sprinkled reef. Low tide is sharp and shallow and high tide a little bouncy at this consistent crowded favourite. The long, curving, scalloped Praia do Baleal is offshore in any S winds. The centre of the beach gathers plenty of swell whilst the corners are good on big and windy days, attracting many surf schools. It takes a big SW swell and N winds to awaken Molho Leste’s wedging peak beside the harbour wall. The thick righthand barrels require expertise to manage the air drops and speed to beat the crunching lip. Rippy, localised spot. Supertubos has become a regular stop on the world pro tour and a perfect warm-up for Pipeline. Long, heavy, gas-filled tubes are guaranteed as well as a few shut-down close-outs, such is the speed of this wave. The lefts are usually better, but plenty of shorter rights peel off the main peak, especially in NW conditions. It’s at its best with NE winds, a decent SW swell and mid-tide, but these conditions don’t come around everyday. There can be a few lesser peaks further along the beach to help dilute the concentration of bodyboarders and local tube-seekers, but there’s no escaping the mega crowds. A long, fat right that gets seriously big, breaks to the south of Consolação headland, while to the north is a much more fickle but hollow left. Both waves are very heavy and the right has good N wind shelter. Further south down towards the Ericeira zone are a series of long beaches and the occasional mediocre reef. Check from Areia Branca to Santa Cruz in small summer swells, plus Praia Azul for a quiet, consistent, high quality beachbreak with some wind shelter.

Statistics

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
dominant swell W -N W -N W -N W -N W -N W -N
swell size (ft) 5-6 5-6 4 3 4-5 5-6
consistency (%) 80 70 60 40 80 80
dominant wind N -NE NW -NE NW -N NW -N NW -NE N -E
average force F2 F2 F2 F2 F3 F3
consistency (%) 71 54 65 55 51 73
water temp (C) 13 14 16 18 17 15
wetsuit 4/3 4/3 3/2 3/2 3/2 3/2

Travel Information

Weather
The climate in Portugal is very pleasant year-round. Ericeira and Peniche are in the middle of the country, stuck between the dry Algarve and the damp regions north of Porto. The wettest season starts in November and lasts until March-April, and there is even snow in the Serra da Estrela (the snow resorts are only reliable in February). The best climate occurs during the change over seasons, even though mid-summer rarely gets too hot on the coast. The Nortada (north winds) always cool things down and conspire with the cold Canarian Current to prevent the water from ever reaching boardshorts temperature. A light 2/2 or 3/2 steamer will do except in mid-winter when a 4/3 and boots are necessary. August can see any temp between 17-22ºC (63-72ºF) and March can drop to 13ºC (56ºF).

Lodging and Food
Unless it’s high season (June-Sept), finding quartos (rooms) or flats in Baleal/Peniche is easy, ask at the tourismo or try the pensaoes on Rua Jose Estevao in the old town. Baleal Surf Camp has 2 prime locations and a well-respected surf school. A meal costs around $12. Tasca do Joel is the restaurant frequented by the pros when the tour comes to town. Don’t let the fish factory stench put you off the national dish of grilled sardines.

Nature and Culture
Don’t miss Obidos, the fortified city to the east. Take a trip to the Berlenga islands, a bird-filled National Park, with nice beaches and snorkelling.

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